Bosi Ridge from the main cliff
A quick pint before last orders, and Staples and I were skidding our way down damp choss towards the start of Bosigran Ridge. It's an awesome jagged crest that rises out of the sea like some kind of primeval beast, I'd wanted to do it for ages. By headtorch we clambered onto the ridge and abseiled as far down as the tide would allow us. Waves crashed against the rock, somehow amplified by the darkness; it was clear we wouldn't be able to climb the first pitch without at least getting a bit wet. So we tied into a short rope at the start of pitch 2 and got going.
Abbing into the darkness
Chimney low down on the route
The climbing was great fun. Up a chimney, exposed hand traverse, weaving through spikes and pinnacles on the crest. Over far too soon.
At the top
The next morning we got an early start and ambled over to Bosigran main cliff. First up was Doorpost, a classic HS, and it's one of the best routes I've ever done. Staples led a fun rising traverse to a ledge, then I climbed to the top in one big pitch. There were some tricky moves up a pair of parallel jamming cracks, then monster jug hauling all the way. I barely placed any gear because I didn't want to interupt the wonderful flow of movement over massive holds, perched on edges high above the sea. Great stuff.
Staples leading pitch 1 of Doorpost
Looking up at the awesome second pitch
On the sharp end
We got lost on a route called Autumn Flakes and I ended up moving onto the adjacent VS, Nameless, because I saw some ancient peg stubs in a crack and assumed it must at least be a way to the top. High above his belay I yelled down to Staples;
"There's pegs mate!"
"Safe?"
"No, pegs!"
"OK, take..."
"No, there's pegs here!"
"...What..?"
"I SAID PEGS YOU DEAF CUNT, PEGS..."
And so it went on...
Staples leading the first pitch of Shit Route I Never Wanted To Do Anyway
Next we had a go at a climb called Little Brown Jug, a tough VS. Staples led up a fun groove, then I traversed a slab to reach a belay below the crux pitch. Up I went, finding it rather hard work, until eventually the crux shut me down altogether. I simply couldn't do anything useful with my feet, couldn't see the move, and the gear wasn't good enough to just wing it and hope. Back down I went, head hung in shame. Stupid route anyway. We finished up by soloing Alison Rib, then drove over to Land's End.
The Start of the Long Climb
Incredible rock architecture
Staples at the base of the route
Not a bad place to climb!
Just beyond the bloody awful tourist shite and the hotel were the cliffs, great lichen encrusted blocks of granite, and the other big classic of the South West, Land's End Long Climb. Descending a gully led us into another world. The rocks dropping down into the sea, end of the country, nothing but the Atlantic Ocean beyond. There were mysterious promontories just off the coast, an unmanned lighthouse way offshore amid small nameless islands of rock. On the horizon, far out west, the sun was setting, shimmering rays cast across the waves. It was a stunning place, I felt privaledged to be climbing there.
Staples leading the Elbow Crack pitch
Me leading another pitch higher up
The final section of the Long Climb
The final pitch, up the corner crack just left of centre. I think you're supposed to climb the face to the right but it looked nails for VDiff!
The route climbed a series of staggered blocks and buttresses, by cracks and chimneys, never hard but always interesting - apart from one section, which I suspect we did wrong, that involved a desperately insecure traverse around a featureless bulge and felt about 5a....but there you go. Gradually the day waned into darkness. We topped out by headtorch and went straight to the First and Last pub to celebrate a magnificent climb.
Top of the route with the Land's End Hotel just behind
Another late finish
Next day, and the target was Chair Ladder. More than anywhere else in the West Country, I wanted to climb a route here. Towering crags and pinnacles of golden granite some 70m high.
Early morning atmosphere at Chair Ladder
The gloomy abseil into the heart of the cliff
The awesome South Face Pinnacle
Me leading the exposed and sustained second pitch
The fun steep crack of pitch 3
The very base of the cliff was tidal so we made an abseil down a gully onto a damp ledge. Here we began the mega-classic South Face Direct, 4 pitches of incredible, sustained crack climbing up a huge buttress. Pitch 2 was the crux, with hard moves up rounded cracks leaving the belay. I was lacking confidence after backing off Little Brown Jug but got there in the end, some kind of smeary-slappy sequence to reach a good hold. After that it was gloriously exposed jug hauling all the way, constantly engaging, pulling through a final overhang on ridiculous bucket holds - and at last finishing at a proper summit, the top of the south face pinnacle.
Looking down from the summit pinnacle
Psyched!
Tired but extremely happy on the top. One of the best trad routes I've ever done, on a such a wild and beautiful crag
Staples on the pinnacle
We debated doing another route but decided not to. It started raining on the walk back to the car, which somewhat justified the decision. To finish off an awesome trip we swung by the Dewerstone on the way back so Staples could lead the brilliant Central Groove.
Staples leading the awesome Central Groove
Staples at the belay. The metal bolt is what holds the huge block in place...!
The tricky final corner below the top
It was great climbing, lots of bridging and shuffling up a perfect open groove. The best bit was stepping right onto a steep wall on super positive flinty holds, edging higher, nothing below but the drop. Finally I soloed up a fun easy route called Mucky Gully (not as bad as it sounds!) before we headed back home.
On top of the Pinnacle Buttress after a quick jolly up Mucky Gully
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