The way is clear. A north ridge,
saw-toothed pinnacles, distant snowy summit hidden from sight. We climb. Over
spikes and towers, traversing slabs, we move together quickly. If one falls
the other will hold firm or die trying. But it will not come to that. Though we
don’t yet know it, this day is ours.
Flashback a year. Chamonix, black
clouds fill the skies, mountains made inaccessible by snow and by storm. Shut
down. Months of training gone to waste. We are trapped in our tent for long
hours by a blizzard that kills on the slopes of Mont Blanc. Early return,
disappointment. Failure. A hunger unsatisfied. No question of coming back again. Given a
chance I know we can accomplish anything.
The ridge is unrelenting. I find
the easiest way and worry about time. Perfect weather, little wind, the sun
rising fast. Too fast. The way back down off this mountain will be dangerous in
the midday heat. A maze of seracs waiting to fall, ever weakening bridges over
crevasses without bottom. No matter though. We live for the present, for this
winding ridge of golden rock. Concentrating on finding handholds. Feet clumsy in big boots. Hard to trust upon tiny imperfections. And just above, the
crux awaits.
A steep tower. Finger cracks and
edges. Pat belays and I climb quickly. Smearing on nothing. Muscles tremble as
I hang on to place protection. Legs ache. Cold fingers uncurl. I must not fall
now. Upwards, ever upwards. If I can reach the next ledge we are halfway there.
Old rusty pegs hammered into fissures. They will not hold but I clip them
anyway. The ledge within sight, within reach. A final grasp. I catch my breath
and bring Pat up. We continue without rest.
Meters pass, the ridge drops away
beneath my feet. Pure instinct. Life or death desicions made in a heartbeat. I realise
I am experiencing one of the great days of my life. Putting ideal into reality.
We forge our dreams of rock and ice. The climbing is getting harder, more
intense, each pinnacle a riddle we must solve to carry on. Gatekeepers of the
summit. We climb effortlessly as one, each safeguarding the other.
Communicating through the ebb and flow of the rope alone.A final obstacle. The ridge narrows. On either side a terrible void drops away. Incuts hewn into the stone, a stairway to perfection. Beckoning me onward to exponential heights. Tired now. We slow and puff. At last the rock ends and a snow arête climbs up to nothing but sky. The summit. The reason for my being. Pat out in front, a lone figure battling through the wind. His ice axe bites deep, his crampons cutting the steps that I will follow. Lost in the wonder of the moment. Not there yet but soon we will be.
Just a few feet now. The crunch of snow. I can see mountains all around me, challenge enough to last ten lifetimes. Nowhere else I’d rather be. Fuelled by a fire within that burns hot and bright. Time loses meaning, seconds crawl by with the weight of decades. One more step and I can go no higher. An experience that will be mine forever. I step at last into a depthless, rushing blue, where the world ends and the mountain becomes the sky.
