After descending from the Rimpfischhorn back into the valley Jordan and I took a rest day and debated what to go for next. We knew we would probably only do one more climb, so it had to be something big. Initially the Dufourspitze and the Dom (2nd and 3rd highest independent peaks in the Alps respectively) were the main candidates. However, both would demand long approaches, tedious glacier/snow plodding, and not an awful lot of exciting climbing. I couldn't summon any enthusiasm for either. Several other ideas were discussed, but really there was only ever going to be one answer.
In Zermatt it is impossible to forget or ignore the Matterhorn. It is far more than just an imposing, isolated physical presence at the head of the valley. Every shop has dozens of duplicate images of it, on t-shirts, mugs, and posters. Businesses with no connection to mountaineering are named after it. There is no escape from it, the peak gets under your skin and whispers in your ear 'climb me'. The moment the idea entered my head I knew we would be attempting the Matterhorn, whether Jordan liked it or not.
In good weather we took the lift up to Schwarzsee and followed a trail to the Hornli Hut at 3260m. Our target of course was the Hornli ridge, by far the mountain's easiest route. Despite this, and the large amount of fixed protection on it, the ridge is still a serious proposition. Over 1200m long, and notoriously much harder to get back down than climb up. It would push us hard.
We pitched the tent on a scree field, geared up, and went off for a quick recce up the first part of the ridge. Apparently the route finding on this section was especially tricky in the dark, so we wanted to get to know as much of it as possible. Unfortunately, after barely 10 minutes out it started raining and we were forced back to camp with all our gear soaked. A worrying evening followed, where we tried to dry our kit over the tiny gas stove, and listened to a rescue helicopter lift stranded climbers off the mountain. Further warning, as if we needed it, that getting up and down again quickly was essential. Due to its isolated nature, the Matterhorn attracts bad weather very easily, and is prone to sudden thunderstorms in the afternoon.
After fitful sleep, we geared up and started the climb around 4:30am. Dozens of parties from the hut soon overtook us, and we followed a chain of headtorches upwards at a very rapid pace. The first few hundred meters passed by in a blur. But as each team settled into a rhythym, we all spread out, and Jordan and I had to find the way ourselves again. The climbing was sustained scrambling, up ribs and chimneys, never hard, never really easy. Sometime just before dawn we made a route-finding error and stuck to the crest where we should've traversed onto more straightforward terrain on the adjoining east face. Harder grade III climbing cost us time. Two guided parties overtook us and we followed their lead to regain the correct route.
By this point it was fully light. What we saw was not encouraging. The last 300m or so of the peak was completely hidden in a wall of ominous looking black cloud. All around the skies were grey, there was no sun coming through. We carried on up slabby ground, enthusiasm waning. Our aim was to be at the Solvay emergency hut, perched around 4050m, within 3 hours of setting out. This was a turn around time we'd agreed to strictly adhere to. The hut was still some way above us, and 3 hours had been and gone. I was tired, Jordan was moving very slowly. I realised that we'd struggle to reach the top like this, and if we did getting down would be very hard indeed, perhaps impossible if the weather got any worse.
Belayed to an old thread, I brought Jordan up to my stance and told him we were going down right now. He'd been thinking along the same lines. Better to retreat with enough time and energy to safely get off the ridge. So at c3950m, we turned our backs to the summit and began the long climb down. True to reputation, it was constantly difficult, requiring concentration and technique every step of the way. We moved steadily, as a team, belaying each other wherever possible. It didn't take long for the guides who had overtaken us to reach the same desicion, and abandom their attempts as well. Those who caught up with us said the rock became increasingly icy higher up.
Several hours later, the weather worsening all the while, we finally stepped off the ridge and back to our tent. There was no disappointment, only a sense of being challenged, and satisfaction at having made the right desicion. Live to climb another day, the mountain will still be there next time. As we began the long hike down to the valley, I looked over my shoulder at the shrouded bulk of the Matterhorn, and knew I'd be back.
Zermatt 2012 - Saturday 18th to Sunday 26th August.
Peaks/Routes climbed/attempted;
Rimpfischhorn (4198m) - West-South West flank, PD+, descent via the same route.
Matterhorn (4478m) - Hornli ridge, AD III-, retreated from c3950m due to our insufficient speed and deteriorating weather conditions.
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